![]() This can even feel true at 6 p.m., when the wait might stretch well past 90 minutes. The collective style among patrons is gallery chic - and I should note here that one of the coolest people I know finds the coolness at Bonnie’s a bit overwhelming. And patrons arrive in clubbing clothes, casual clothes, and jumpsuits decorated with dragons. Waiters ferry over char siu “McRibs” - sandwiches whose sweet glazes are tamed by the musk of good pork ribs and the powerful sting of sharp mustard. A single lazy Susan decorates a table up front while the large group sitting there ignores it. Bartenders shake sweet espresso martinis (spiking the coffee with orange pekoe and vodka), savory MSG martinis (like drinking a dozen oysters), and $80 pitchers of Long Island iced tea (with Mexican Coke to make it gourmet). Groovy bathroom lights flash from purple to red to green. Now, a warning: You might’ve crossed borough lines to visit Bonnie’s for some of the city’s finest new noodle dishes, but folks are also here for the party. These are most definitely not buttered noodles. And that’s just as well, because the dining room din and soundtrack - Mos Def, Shyne - is cranked up to such a degree that you need these ingredients to speak up a bit, or even shout. ![]() This cacio e pepe is balanced but turbocharged, an experience not dissimilar to blasting an operatic aria at volume and bass levels better suited for Metallica. And the combination of doufuru and cheese imparts an aroma so sweetly pungent it’s like standing next to the fromage station at a gourmet market. The coarse pepper generates a punch of heat that could stop conversation in mid-sentence. The sauce is powerfully saline, with a roundness that causes the mouth to salivate intensely. Oh, and the chefs also add MSG.Ĭhef Calvin Eng, a native Brooklynite who last worked at Win Son, lets the ingredients emulsify in a ripping-hot wok, allowing the components to caramelize and coat the noodles until they look stained. Here, cacio e pepe means fat and firm bucatini, truckloads of pecorino and Parm, showers of black and white pepper, and a generous dose doufuru, a Chinese fermented bean paste whose funk nearly puts the dish in the category of a dry-aged steak. Bon Appétit once called a version “stripped-down mac and cheese,” while Twitter users frequently quip that the dish translates to “adult buttered noodles.” At Bonnie’s, however, a rollicking Cantonese American restaurant in Williamsburg, the kitchen launches this typically mild-mannered pasta (along with everything else) into the flavor stratosphere. They’re kind of away from the “popular” section of AP (think Cookman Ave) but it’s worth a visit for sure.Cacio e pepe literally means “cheese and pepper,” and that’s about all there is in this famed Roman pasta dish, other than water, salt, and butter. And they stock my beloved Cheerwine so that’s another plus. Price was average to maybe a little higher for BBQ. The only thing I wasn't crazy for was the collards. The mac and cheese comes with some Cheez-Its on it which I’d probably ditch. I think I would’ve preferred Texas Toast. Tray comes with pickles, onions and potato rolls. Brisket came with a few burnt ends as well which were amazing. They have a few tables in front but out back there’s picnic tables and you’re right near the smoker which fills the air with an awesome aroma. You order at the counter and since we were eating in they brought it out to us. ![]() Since a good friend of mine was moving away I treated to lunch. This is type of place where they serve the meat by weight. I imagine most of their business is takeout and delivery. A lot of it you have to pay for but it’s cheap. Went on a Friday afternoon around lunchtime. I finally got around to trying out this place.
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